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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How to grade your dog's food:
Start with a grade of 100:

1) For every listing of "by-product", subtract 10 points

2) For every non-specific animal source ("meat" or "poultry", meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points

3) If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points

4) For every grain "mill run" or non-specific grain source,subtract 5 points

5) If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. "ground brown rice", "brewerâ?Ts rice", "rice flour" are all the same grain), subtract 5 points

6) If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points

7) If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points

8 ) If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3points

9) If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 morepoints

10) If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil,subtract 2 points

11) If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points

12) If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points

13) If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isnâ?Tt allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points

14) If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isnâ?Tt allergic to beef), subtract 1 point

15) If it contains salt, subtract 1 point

Extra Credit:

1) If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points

2) If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or
nutritionist, add 5 points

3) If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points

4) If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points

5) If the food contains fruit, add 3 points

6) If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points

7) If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points

8 ) If the food contains barley, add 2 points

9) If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points

10) If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point

11) If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point

12) For every different specific animal protein source (other than
the first one; count "chicken" and "chicken meal" as only one protein source, but "chicken" and "" as 2 different sources), add 1 point

13) If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point

14) If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point

94-100+ = A
86-93 = B
78-85 = C
70-77 = D

69 = F

Here are some foods that have already been scored. If you don't
see your dog's food here, ask and someone will score it for you.
Dog Food scores:

Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+

Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F

Canidae / Score 112 A+

Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+

Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F

Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B

Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A

Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+

Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+

Foundations / Score 106 A+

Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 D

Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D

Innova Dog / Score 114 A+

Innova Evo / Score 114 A+

Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables / Score 110 A+

Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B

Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy / Score 87 B

Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F

ProPlan Natural Turkey & Barley / Score 103 A+

Purina Benful / Score 17 F

Purina Dog / Score 62 F

Purina Come-n-Get It / Score 16 F

Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+

Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+

Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A

Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F

Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+

Wolfking Adult Dog (bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 A
 

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I have recently changed over to Premium Edge Skin and Coat. Seems to be better than most things I find around here. Might have to drag the bag over and score it. I did notice a dramatic decrease in Jadyn's problems with shedding and flaking skin from allergies. She was nearly bald on her back. Since I switched foods she has a full, shiny, and soft coat.


After looking I think it scored slightly over 100. Maybe 104. Here is a link if someone wouldn't mind double checking my sleepy brain function.


http://www.premiumedgepetfood.com/pe_skindog_page.html
 

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I can honestly say that the Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato or Fish and Sweet Potato, including their prepared BARF,is really good for my dogs. I've tried several of those on the list, and I've seen a difference, even though I had no major problems, and I always want to give the best I can provide for my dogs.


I don't agree with some of the scoring, but I'm sure they have their reasons. I'veresearched that certain ingredients that were listed in the extra credit section, are not always best, for every dog or situation. It's ultimately up to the individual's needs and medical history.


However, great post for those needing to learn more about dog food ingredients, thanks for sharing!
 

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I have always been told that dog foods that have fish in them expecially Salmon shouldn't be feed to dogs. Although I know that alot of the higher scoreing dog foods on this list have fish in them. Is it an old wise tale that fish isn't good for dogs or does anyone know if that might be true? Just wondering. We just recently switched xena over to Innova and it has made a world of difference.
 

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<DIV>


Wild Salmoncan be fed, should notusefarm-raised. Same goes for other types of fish, so long as they are cold water, like Cod.Tuna shouldn't be fed because of the high concentration of mercury.


Everything fed should be balanced correctly and usedto the individual needs of each dog. If all you fed was fish, that would not be a good idea. Also, if a dog is allergic to fish, it should be discontinued immediately.</DIV>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
These came off of two different raw sites.

Raw Pacific Northwest Salmon (quoted from "Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats" by Kymythy Schultze) "Salmon poisoning is an infectious disease caused by a rickettsia that uses a parasite fluke on salmon as a host. It is mainly found in Pacific salmon, but any suspect fish may be tested. Avoid this danger by knowing the quality of the fish you are feeding to your pets."
It is possible that deep freezing the salmon for one week will kill any parasites, but I still feel it is best to just avoid raw salmon all together.A special note with regards to those who live in the Pacific Northwest: salmon and trout can carry the rickettsia organism responsible for salmon poisoning. If your dog shows ANY signs of being ill within two weeks of feeding, get him/her to the vet, and tell them to look for salmon poisoning. This information is not meant to scare anyone, but it's extremely risky to feed raw salmon and trout from the Pacific Northwesthttp://www.4loveofdog.com/avoid.htm
 

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This is all pretty confusing to me!! I have been feeding Royal Canin large breed puppy. My Rottie likes it but it stools are very soft. He is eight months old and weights around 95lbs. It seems that everyone we talk to claims the food they are using is the best. Trying to figure out this point scale is bit difficult. I have been looking into Wolf Cub Puppy (bison) by Solid Gold. I am trying to limit his growth to about 10-12 pounds a month. How long should I keep him on puppy food? His dad was fairly small (120lbs) but his grand dad on moms side is 160 lbs. I need good advice!!! THANKS
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My puppies are put on adult at 7 weeks and are on it for life.They are only on puppy for weaning purposes.


Some people keep them on for a year.I feel they don't need the extra they get from puppy.But everyone is different.
 

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My max has been on Nutro for the passed 2 years. He recenlty stopped eating that brand. Now he has been eating Dog Chow that I get from Walmart. So far no difference on weight, poops, etc etc... I don't know what to tell ya.


Spend money on high quality brands or the cheaper ones. I am more confused than anything. So far my Max is doing good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dogs can live on the cheep stuff,but it is not giving them much.It is alot of fillers.


The higher something is on the list of ingredents ,the more of it in the food.


You never want to see corn,and having corn 1st is really bad.That means there is more corn in the food then anything else.


The preservatives can also be a cancer causing agent.The better the food (hopfully) the longer they will be around.
 

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After reading the reports of what goes into those cheaper brands, I won't buy them.
 

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thanx donna for this post.i have been using daimond maintenance for years,and i use diamond lamb/rice when im caring for pregnant dogs.now i see that diamond large breed is better im gonna switch.i wish we had more to choose from here in nc but some of those brands i never heard of.you keep us informed girl
 

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i was feeding OSO pedigree and then switched to purina puppy chow, he finishes it up with no questions asked i just did the test and it rates an A
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Most of the Purina foods scored and F.


Purina Benful / Score 17 F

Purina Dog / Score 62 F

Purina Come-n-Get It / Score 16 F



not sure if you are feeding Purina Pro Plan ?
 

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yes the one they grow up on. im not going to spend all that fancy money on food and the name of some of these A's i've never heard of so im laughing. What about Pedigree anyone grade that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you can buy the food at the same store you buy your food-it is not a good food.


Your dog will be able to live off the food,but you are giving your dog things that can shorten their lives.


It's not about the money for the big named foods ,it's about giving your dog the best so they can live a long health life (cancer free)hopfully.
 

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Dog food is an interesting subject.


I can live on twinkies. They taste great, are reasonably cheap, and they will put on weight but that doesn't mean they are good for me. Just like people... dogs should get a little of everything. I think that food has a lot to do with how well your dog is at 5 or 6 or 8 years old , not just how they are right now. I treat my dogs like they are my family and I want what is best for them even if it means a couple more dollars. matter of fact... even if it was double.


The people who do this research and these studies are not selling food. Yes, they may be getting a little kick back to praise one a little over another but for the most part I think the info is on the up and up. They know a lot more about nutrition and chemicals than I do so I am going to take their word for it.
 

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i live in a small town walmart, safeway and another off brand grocery store are what all carry our dog foods. if i want a pet store its a 2hr ride or online. so if the above is true and and


If you can buy the food at the same store you buy your food-it is not a good food. then i guess going into walmart and getting proplan, wellness and the like are now F's. DOg food should onlyu be bought at pet stores, not store i have available to me in order for them to be good foods then?? I often stared at science diet when i go into my vets office, but the vet bill alone it should be given away with each visit. All these choices, my dog for now is on puppy pro plan puppy chow and has to finish two bags of that and then i can screw his stomach up trying to figure out what to change him to next.
the good old diget has alot to do with it too. Gosh life is fun. Should of never found this article.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The best food to feed is not even dog food.


My roommate feeds all her dogs on raw meat.She orders about 600lbs a month of chicken ,beef and pork.She chops and bags for days.The dogs love it and they all look great.


I on the other hand am lazy.I like to open a bag and scoop out food for the dogs(more conveant for me)but I stll want them to have the best.


Do you have a feed mill around by you?That is where I get my Canidae at.


You can also look up on their sites(dog food companys) and see if someone sells it close to you.Some of the best foods are sold out of peoples homes.I had to drive 1 1/2 hours to get Azmira when I fed that.Now she is 3 hours away so I found a feed mill and they sell it close to where I live.
 

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raw diet has the potential of samanella also. Ever since my rotti passed this last Nov, without warning or cause, all he did was throw up, he was on pedigree his whole life, he had gotten large fatty tumors on his hips real quick but i blame me and the chicken cooked skin for that. So now im learyof whats really good. I want to stick with pedigree as thats what i see most breeders use and thats what's ALWAYS out at our WM store here. I'veeyed Maxium also.Has anyone done a pedigree test yet????
 
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